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In the mirror, I appear to be wearing enormous gilded pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Children play in a rock pool imitating ocean creatures, meanwhile adjacent rests a talking pea in a exhibition box, alongside a towering stack of cushions. It represents the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s widely adored storytellers. I find myself in Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to investigate the author's enduring legacy in his birthplace many decades after his passing, and to find a couple of enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

Andersen's House is the local exhibition space dedicated to the writer, including his first home. A museum representative explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For visitors who come to Odense in search of narrative enchantment, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a major road, made it possible to reimagine how the renowned native could be celebrated. A prestigious architectural challenge gave Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the layout. The remarkable wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we communicate similarly to him: with wit, irony and viewpoint,” notes the curator. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for large beings, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, a challenge accomplished by strategic landscaping, experimenting with elevation, size and many winding paths in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

The author penned several memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach seriously; often the views of his friends or fragments of correspondence are displayed to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of happenings. “Andersen is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the expert. The result is a fascinating swift exploration of his personal story and creations, mental approaches and most popular stories. This is stimulating and fun, for adults and kids, with a additional basement make-believe land, the pretend town, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the actual city, the small city of the municipality is charming, with cobbled streets and traditional Danish homes colored in vibrant hues. The writer's influence is all around: the road indicators show the storyteller with his signature formal headwear, metal shoe prints provide a free guided stroll, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this commitment peaks with the annual storytelling event, which marks the writer's impact through art, dance, theatre and melodies.

Recently, the week-long celebration had hundreds of events, the majority were complimentary. As I explore Odense, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I experience empowering poetry and see an amazing late-night performance with acrobatic dancers lowering from the town hall and hanging from a mechanical arm. Still to come during the season are lectures, family art workshops and, expanding the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

Every excellent magical places require a fortress, and this region boasts 123 castles and stately homes around the area

Pedaling Through History

Like much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to travel around in the city and a “bicycle route” winds through the city centre. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I ride to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a route around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the larger island. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here after work, or enjoy a peaceful time catching fish, paddleboarding or swimming.

Back in the city, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is derived from author-inspired concepts and stories. The literary work the national ode is featured when I visit, and owner the restaurateur reads extracts, translated into English, as he presents each course. Such encounters commonplace in my time in Odense, the local residents love a yarn and it appears narrating is constantly offered here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful magical places need a castle, and Fyn features 123 castles and estates throughout the region. Going on excursions from town, I explore the historic fortress, Europe’s best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she would notice a small legume through a stack of {mattresses